An Adventure called Arunachal- Part 01, The ride to Mechuka

                   

                       AN ADVENTURE CALLED ARUNACHAL

                 Part- One

               RIDE TO MECHUKA (MAY 2019)

The only impossible journey is the one you never begin

- Tony Robbins

          A year after I explore the remotest places of India in Arunachal Pradesh on a bike, I pen down the experiences, to restart my blog after a gap of 08 years. I hope these memoirs add to the spirit of biking which has inspired me to ride on the roads that were never explored before. I planned a 03-part series on my bike rides in Arunachal viz., Mechuka (2019, part-1), Kibithu (2018, part-2) and Tawang (2017, part-3), all on my RE Himalayan. I really wish to share the beauty of North-East India, which I really feel is very much less explored than other parts of the country. 

My journey begins when the nation wakes up to a new Government in the country. The elections had just ended with the counting process which was when I decided to explore the roads less travelled in Arunachal Pradesh for over the next 08 days on my Royal Enfield Himalayan, alone. The place I already had in mind was – ‘Mechuka’, the land of the mystic river.

The day I returned from my trip to Kibithu (March 2018, Part 2 of this series), I fix my next destination, Mechuka! The thrill of being a biker lies in deciding the next target when you finish riding one. The trip to Kibithu was also one such target that I have fixed after coming back from Tawang (April 2017, Part 3 of this series), both on my REH.

The story of my ride begins here.

Day 1, May 25 2019, Jorhat to Ziro- Across the mighty Brahmaputra:

I start from Jorhat, Assam in the morning to cross the Brahmaputra on a ferry to Majuli island, the largest inhabited riverine island in the world, a lush green paradise at its best at this time of the year. Crossing the mighty Brahmaputra on a ferry along with your bike is a rare experience for non-locals and will remain a treasured one. Riding on the Majuli island with its lush green landscapes, river streams, bridges, green carpet of paddy fields was breathtaking. Another interesting feature in this village is the Satras of the Vaishnava community established by Shankaradeva which hold a crucial place in shaping the cultural history of Assam. While riding along the villages of Majuli, with luggage roped onto my bike, the sight of kids cheering me along the way filled me with exhilaration. One has to also cross various other river streams on small boats onto the other side i.e. northern bank of Brahmaputra.  Another journey wherein you encounter the mighty Brahmaputra is when you cross the river to avoid at least 300km of the journey by road outside Tezpur, a town in Assam.

 In pic: The lush green Majuli island

In Assam, May is the month when the dry season (winter) starts to turn wet due to rains that lash North-East India from May/June-Sept every year. Riding inside Arunachal Pradesh is enjoyable for the reason that on plain roads one can ride at a speed of 60-70 km in an hour while in AR, the hilly terrains offer very challenging stretches where riding up to 30 km in an hour is very difficult.

In pic: The mighty mountains and the blessing sunlight!

The full view of this picture is a breath-taking one with a mini hydroelectric project that can be spotted on the bottom right (next pic)

The stunning view of the ranganadi Dam at Potin, Arunachal (between Kimin and Ziro)

The whole experience of exploring a place starts here with mighty mountains sizing you down for the adventure. The secret to enjoying riding in Arunachal is to respect the mountains and enjoy riding at the pace the road allows you. However, it is physically tiring due to continuous exposure to sunlight, dehydration, constant stretches of bad roads, rain & wet conditions notwithstanding the constant use of clutch, brakes and accelerator. But it is not something that deters a biker from enjoying the equally overwhelming sceneries and landscapes through a bike ride. Kimin is the entry gate for Ziro. ILP is checked at the gate and one enters Arunachal Pradesh (hills) immediately and the changed landscape from lush green to tropical hilly roads is stark and adventure is set to begin now originally. As you set your pace, the mountains offer a whole other world of experience ahead of you.  After journeying to what seemed like an eternity, I reached Ziro around 1900 hrs where I stayed with a friend of mine and retired for the day. It was very cold night in Ziro, an usual affair at that place.

Day 2, May 26 2019- Ziro local visit

Ziro valley is a beautiful place and is the headquarters of the Lower Subansiri district of Arunachal Pradesh. Ziro is surrounded by mountains which are famous for different varieties of rare flowers found there and exotic beautiful butterflies that visit the place seasonally. If one is guessing what else Ziro is famous for, it’s the Ziro Festival of Music (ZFM) held every September in which music lovers attend from all over the world to witness the 03-day festival of music, a culture unique to Arunachal Pradesh which celebrates such festivals regularly. Apart from that, the local cuisine offers a wide variety of food that is traditionally cooked in the kitchens of local people. A unique experience was witnessing the culture of the tribes that inhabited the place for ages. The hunting tools, the local kitchen, rice beer (well, tastes great you know) and the landscapes that Ziro offers has attracted tourists for the last few years apart from ZFM visitors. Ziro has a fairly good number of homestays and places to stay that are booked well in advance during the ZFM. A true getaway from the hassles of daily life, one can enjoy the serene landscape views of Ziro for hours together.

In the local kitchens of Arunachal- the fireplace is also used to store firewood, food grains, meat and other food items during the rainy season.

The views that are also blessed like these places- astounding view of Ziro valley!

The village side views the Ziro valley, full of green pastures and clear water streams. An amazing view to behold.

I planned the further journey from Ziro to Aalo, which can be ridden via two routes, one through the route I rode yesterday into Assam plains that takes only a day while the other one is a great adventure which only a handful of bikers from India had taken via Raga, Daporijo to Aalo that takes complete two days. An adventure is a complete one and there are no half-adventures. Hence, I chose the adventurous path for my journey ahead to reach Aalo via Daporijo, the sleepy town amidst hills by the banks of River Subansiri. The most memorable and wonderful experience of exploring the roads less travelled is going to unfurl before me.

The issues of food, lodging and others had to be sorted out before one ventures out into this zone as it is theoretically and practically the remotest region of the country without any doubt. As I have already experienced riding to non-tourist places in Arunachal i.e. Kibithu, I had few arrangements made with the assistance of my friend in this regard. Help may be found, but it is pure luck. For two days, the number of other people I had come across apart from hamlets on the way is hardly 05 people. Hence, help can be got, but, first you need to find another pupil to ask help for.

Day 3, May 27 2019- Ziro to Daporijo- Adventure called exploration

The true nature of adventure biking i.e. riding just over 160-180 km during daylight time (around 10-12 hours) is what I experienced when riding between Ziro to Aalo where it was a rare luxury to cross 20 km of distance in an hour. This is exactly what I was looking for, though. The RE Himalayan is a versatile bike (not nimble) as it allows to stand and ride, including changing gears with ease, for stretches. The true pleasure of riding an adventure motorbike can be blissfully experienced on these roads. The new things we learn in a trip are what makes one a seasoned rider. Riding in Arunachal Pradesh had taught me patience to endure. I would elaborate on this in the 3rd part i.e. Tawang ride, as it was a true challenge, physically and mentally.

In pictures: Day 3 pictures

Heavy rain lashed on the way to Raga that left the road like a river stream through a village

Doggy and the view of Daporijo by the banks of Subansiri river. 

The magical morning foggy view on the way to Raga from Ziro!

Another view of the silent town of Daporijo!

The views so amazing that make me ride back to freeze the moments!

It is also interesting to note how ride after ride in North-East has been shaping me into an expert biker. An adventure bike is an apt form of machine IMHO to enjoy biking to the core. The villages among the valleys in the hills of Arunachal have no facilities since tourism has yet not been developed commercially. Having a cup of tea becomes difficult to find. I only had breakfast at Raga because my friend had it arranged. Apart from that, I found nothing to eat on the way to Daporijo for the whole day. However, I carried few food items with me for exigent circumstances. As you approach Daporijo, you get a view of the whole town sleeping peacefully amidst hills by the banks of River Subansiri. What a serene view to behold and enjoy the landscape view. I happened to enjoy it with a local buddy, a doggo 😉 Daporijo is a very silent town amidst the tropical forest hills of Arunachal. I found a small & cosy place to stay just by the banks of the river.

Day 4: May 28 2019, Daporijo to Aalo, the exploration continues

The morning breakfast and tea fuel the day as I enjoy the view by the riverside before loading up the bike. As I proceed through the town towards Aalo, the local shops are just opening up for the day. The curiosity of locals still on the higher side, a mechanic asks if I am an indeed Indian as I am roaming freely in these regions of the country. His question both surprised and shocked me. I proceeded out of the town once again into the hills as I ride. Riding on such roads (If you can call them so, as there were no roads at all) was a new kind of adventure giving me various insights into the physical and mental preparedness a biker has to endure while riding along the rough terrains of Arunachal Pradesh. It is very easy to lose your way in the hills as small roads divert off without any significant view of any diversion. The downloaded maps could be of best use if in doubt, as in this part of the country it is very difficult to find a person to ask for directions. The roads were pretty much like yesterday and it took a whole day light’s time to cover 180 km to reach Aalo.

Riding alone and for only 180kms in a day actually gave me time to introspect things and that is when you realise the inconsequentiality of your existence in this Universe.  You find people going about their work, children playing gleefully outside their homes without any gadgets, men and women having their meals while laughing between conversations. Makes you think, with all the facilities that the cities provide you, why does happiness become so elusive. As I sit there watching the habitants of these villages sharing a joke among themselves as they have their evening tea, where they live in peace with nature, I find happiness. The irony of the situation is not lost on me. I finally find peace.

An isolated house amongst villages. Here, an old couple lived with sustenance from local produce and firewood for cooking.

Plain hill and isolated homes on it…It was blissful to watch the nature flaunting!

Serene breaks amidst a thick forest!

Meanwhile, I start forward again and you realize unexpected things happen all the time where I lose my action camera on the way somewhere when I stopped for clicking pictures and shooting a video. I realize this after 20 km of riding further and with no other option, but to go back looking for it, I ride back. Luckily, I find the camera on the ground exactly where I stopped before. Amidst the hills, there is no threat of someone stealing as it is never a part of the culture of hill people and moreover there are no other people on road also. The bike rides up the hills very smoothly and finally, I reach Aalo before sunset. It is a fairly bigger town than Daporijo with a couple of mechanic shops where I adjust the chain and wash the bike for the big day tomorrow, to ride to Mechuka!

Day 5: May 28 2019- Aalo to Mechuka- Ah! finally the misty and magical Mechuka!

Early in the morning, I set out to explore the misty, magical place. The first 40 km is a bliss to ride on with a plain stretch among the hills. Thereafter, the next 140 km are like the earlier 02 days. There were many stretches with debris caused by landslides that happened recently, which were cleared. The villages along the route are remote but there is one place mid-way namely ‘Siko Dido waterfall’ at a village named Yapu & Irgo, where there exists a picturesque waterfall with a small line hotel with a valley view for the lunch. One may find Maggi or rice at this place since Mechuka is not totally devoid of tourism as it already is an offbeat adventure destination for many. Notable among the events is the adventure festival held annually in November. The adventure lovers find their way to this beautiful place that has many things to offer from bicycle rides to 14-day treks into the totally mystical places of the area. As one takes a diversion from Tito village to the left, the landscape slowly starts to change into green pastures and amazing landscapes across which a river keeps flowing in conjunction with the road; the magical river of Mechuka after which the place is named. As I reached closer to Mechuka, I could feel the misty air welcoming me.

The Siko Dido waterfall- midway between Aalo and Mechuka!

The roads on the hills and the river flowing in the valley.

The most looked at scenery of Mechuka, in front of the homestay.

By the time I reach Mechuka, it is already around 1600 hrs and sunsets happen early in Arunachal Pradesh. Finally, I reached the magical destination which was on my ride bucket list for a while. As the sun sets, the place bore a cold and dark look with only a few people moving on the roads. The weather here was chilly and room heaters were provided by the homestays to stay warm. This was the situation in May. Come January & February, you can enjoy snowy landscapes with at least 3-4 feet of snow. As darkness crept in, I warmed up with a cup of rum before dinner. The dinner was served in the kitchen of homestay owners.

A typical Arunachal style kitchen has a Bukhari (room heater) inside with seats to sit around it. It is an amazing experience to relish the local delicacies of the place. I happened to taste locally home-brewed millet beer which was offered by my hosts. It is interesting to note that it takes almost 03 years to brew the beer and the taste is very fresh. Meeting other tourists who come to the place, sharing stories and spending time alone in a magical place like this are few experiences for the day. At the end of the day, I relish the fact that I am finally in Mechuka, the dream destination which I had been planning on riding for so long and I had managed to travel through the most adventurous route possible. As a person and as a biker, I reach another milestone. What could one ask for! Meanwhile, I retire for the day and look forward to exploring Mechuka the next day.

Day 6: May 29 2019, Exploring Mechuka

The sun rises early by 5 AM and Mechuka is chilly at this time. I had a few cups of tea and freshened up to explore Mechuka after having breakfast. I had inquired about the local attractions to be covered around Mechuka. I ride out of Mechuka village to a hill from where the view of Mechuka village looks beautiful.

The landscape again is made up mostly of pine and rhododendron type of trees.  The whole time I rode there, mist is on my face as I ride to the local Gurudwara. The Gurudwara is a shrine on the top of a small hill en route China border. The Mechuka river takes a turn under a bridge here and the pristine waters are very cold and fresh. I splashed some water on my face and drank the river water. The river slowly finds its way down and flows by the side of Mechuka town. It started to rain a little and it was very cold to ride in the rain. I ride back towards Mechuka town and cross the bridge over the river onto the other bank of River Mechuka. The village side is stunning and the landscapes are lush green and better than anything I have ever seen. I click some pictures trying to capture the essence of the valley and filling my eyes with it. Mindful of the picturesque landscape of the valley I return to the homestay for lunch.

The mystical river ‘Menchuka’ flowing under a small bridge at Gurudwara

The Mechuka valley is along the medicinal river Yargyap Chu because of which the place got its name Men (medicinal) Chu (water) Ka (Ice)- ‘Menchuka’. Mechuka, as it is popularly called is gaining prominence as a historical & spiritual place alongside being an adventure destination. Mechuka is a beautiful destination to visit and only then would one experience its magic.

Being a biker, riding the way- I have never witnessed anything so magical than this place.

The path filled with dried twigs/stems that decorate it in orange color

The local delicacy is made like pancakes/dosa. Eaten with honey.

The green meadows atop the Menchuka plateau. The view of the same valley in January-February would resemble Gulmarg with 4-5 feet of snow.

The locally brewed miller beer. Tastes awesome and fresh!

Another issue I had to deal with owing to the rain was the problem with the T-stem bearing of my bike. So, bikers trying to explore these regions should make sure that their vehicles are in perfect condition before starting their journey. I skip local sightseeing of a few more places due to continuous rain. I had to cover the bike’s handle and stem region to avoid any further issues. I spent my time exploring the neighborhood on foot. The houses here are built very differently and the daily lifestyle is based on the geographical and cultural factors here. How blessed are these people who live in a magical place like this! I then plan my return journey as I have to touch the plains before the t-stem bearing of my bike is totally jammed. No bike mechanic in the region (Aalo and Mechuka) was ready to touch the bike saying it may escalate the issue as they were not aware of the technicalities of a big bike (they might be afraid of RE tag). Mechuka is that kind of place that has everything to offer from solace, serenity to adventure and adrenaline rush. While exploring the neighborhood, I came to know that an adventure treks are being organized by homestay operators. During the adventure festival, you can trek to various exotic places in the area and camp at those places. To reach some of those mystical places, you have to trek for a week to 10 days. On my way back, I promise myself that I would come back again for the adventure festival, for such trips are in my opinion, truly the journey to one’s liberation and self-discovery.

Day 7: May 30 2019- Riding back to plains

I start to ride early in the morning to reach Pasighat which comes under the plains part of Arunachal Pradesh, after crossing Aalo towards the East. The ride back was blissful with peaceful roads and the serene Mechuka river flowing alongside. The route to Pasighat from Aalo has a diversion to Boleng which is famous for its hanging bridges that are in oval shape made out of roots of trees. The tropical forests of Arunachal offer cool shades to stop in between to relax after a grueling ride. Occasional water streams provide fresh and cold water to wash the face and hydrate the body.  Rides like these provide a break from the hustle and bustle of life. It is like meditation. It makes you realize what you are truly inside. Every ride has something to teach me, whether be it patience, courage or positive thinking. Halfway after, the road to Aalo opens into a plain stretch on hills which feels like you are not in India, because of the incredibly smooth roads built by BRO on plains in Arunachal and the stunning mountains that belittle you with their size. There is one more such unbelievable road in Arunachal on the eastern sector between Roing and Tezu the drive on which feels like an European road cruise experience because of the landscapes and the smooth roads.

The mountains and the plain roads, an awesome and rare combination! These mountains seemed like ‘Avatar’ mountains when viewed from very closely. On the way, before reaching Pasighat

The feeling of riding on plain roads again after a while. Feels like a relief! (all precautions taken to click the pic and I won’t do anything that is against the spirit of biking)

In the foreground is the beautiful machine that made this adventure possible. In the background, the view of the Siang river meeting the Brahmaputra at Pasighat

         On the last day, the day 8 i.e. May 31 2019, I ride from Pasighat to Kaziranga National Park and treat myself to relax in natures abode. The 08-day adventure is completed successfully and I strike off Mechuka from my bucket list.  

The overwhelming feeling you get when you see something spectacular opens up your mind to new things. People used to wonder and ask me as to why I ride alone most of the times. Well, I say I don’t ride alone, I ride with my bike. The RE Himalayan is a spectacular bike that has indeed helped me visit places that would not have been possible owing to the bad condition of roads. My journey to many such places especially on a motorbike has now shaped me into a better biker than before. Every ride has a story and well, this is the @story.of.my.ride. Kindly follow me on Instagram to follow my journey and to narrate your story of the ride.

The riding in Arunachal requires you to carry an ILP which can be obtained online by uploading the necessary documents with details and paying the fees once the application is approved. It is a 02/03 days process and easy to complete. Based on the route, one has to choose the gates through which they would enter the state.

All pictures and videos (will add them soon) in the write-up are originally shot by me with my mobile phones and an action camera. I have been a avid biker by the time of this trip and I have always followed biking to the core and wore full protective gear with me while I ride and I suggest them for amateur bikers also. As a biker, I believe that the helmet is the crown of a biker.

This is the first article in the series “An Adventure Called Arunachal”- a 03-part story of my bike ride as a part of the exploration of Arunachal Pradesh, India on a Royal Enfield Himalayan.

By the side of rivers

By the side of valleys

By the side of lush green hills

I ride to live my dreams on a bike!